PART ONE OF WWI SIBERIAN DIARY OF WILLIAM C. JONES,
2nd Lt. U.S Army Russian Railway Service

Transposed by Robb Adams.

"1918"

Arrived Vladivostok, Russia and docked at 8 PM Aug 10th after stopping out at quarantine for 30 minutes or so. We of the RRS (sic) were instructed to remain aboard that night. Our chiefs fought out the matter of baggage customs inspection with the long bearded Bolsheviki customs officials and finally got our stuff in without inspection.

I was surprised at the large number of Chinese and Japanese that appeared from the forward second deck of the Sembirsk.

With the may passengers leaving the boat, I attempted to grab a berth for the night, but the berth I grabbed had been occupied by an Englishman and before I got to bed he returned to the boat in a state of intense disgust and claimed his berth.

This Englishman was on his way from England to the Malay Peninsula, or Hong Kong, and was touching at Vladivostok for the purpose of selling some automobiles that had lain in storage there for a long time. The Russian who was supposed to meet him failed to appear at the boat & my English friend's quest for a room resulted after much walking in a find of one room. This room he declared was in a cellar, damp, green mouldy with bugs, rats, snakes centipedes etc making merry therein. Hence the disgust. I told him to try again tomorrow but he swore he would not do business with people who would offer a man such a room.

And the next day he told me that he had booked return passage on the Sembirsk to shanghai. Poor fellow, he had been sea sick all the way up the (Yellow-deleted) Japan sea& he was by nature a true stiff-necked Englishman, accustomed to certain standards, and anything less correct was abhorrent to him. It tickled me just a bit to see him run into such a proposition as Vladivostok presented.

The following morning, Sunday, we all landed to our great relief, and lead(sic) by Jimmy Dugan from the Harbin bunch, hiked up the hill to a large building, a girls high school, which was to be our quarters protem. We found a mattress a pillow, linen & 2 blanket for each man. There were no cots, but the floor was no harder than the wooden bottomed beds of Japan, and as one lanky lieut.(sic) remarked "no danger kicking the end of the bed out."

Our building was a 6 story (sic) one. From its windows we could see far out ove the bay and city, could see the Allied war boats at anchor, the USS Brooklyn, the British S(sic) Suffolk & a Japamnese cruiser which had been a Russian boat.

Vladivostok did surely look good to me, indeed to us all. it was a city of the white race, its houses, its solid strongly built buildings, its streets and walks although plainly not belonging to a first or even second class American city, looked very good to us after so long a time spent in the Japanese city of Nagasaki.

The streets of Vladivostok are considerably in need of repair, also the walks. The city is built on a hill or on hills rising unevenly along the two bays of the Golden Horn and Amur Bay. The hills rise abruptly at several places, there are several high points, one of which has an old fortification on it. It is a charming and harbor to look out over especailly at sundown time when the sun sinks over the low Siberian mountains, sometimes sinking away in the glory of a wonderful pink color that I thought more beautiful than the golden sunsets of home.
The matter of eats was up to ourselves and the restaurants. I felt somewhat diffident about tackling a restaurant but nature and habit encouraged me along and I entered the Zoloti Rog or Golden Horn and there at first glance discovered 2 Russian gentlemen, friends of mine from Japan, and I ate with them. Soon an orchestra appeared & played some very good music, one piece being Sousa's great "Stars andd Stripes Forever" played, I took it, in honor of us R.R.S. men. There were several of us in the cafe and our corps was the first to appear.
(wcd1-006) Aug. 11th to 17th Vladivostok 18th to 26th At Second River, a small station 19 v ersts from Vladivostok, put out there as signal corp man to maintain communications for a detachment of U.S. soldiers who relieved the Chechs (sic) Slovaks who were guarding the road at that point. The Lieut.(sic) in charge of the Chechs was a very pleasant young man. He took me to be inchargge of the detach't & tried to explain to me in English and Russian his patrol arrangements. He knew about as much English as I did Russian. Sept 16 to Oct. 9th (??) at Tunnel Station with detach't U.S. soldiers guarding tunnel there. Here as at second River, lived in tent and ate army grub. Porter E. Turner with me here, here Lieut. Berinn (sp??) in charge of soldiers. Several Korean villages nearby where Koreans lived in all their primitive wealth of dirt, dogs and kids.Weather hot in day time & very chilly at night. Had stove in tent. Army grub (word??) Oct 10 to Oct 13 Vladivostok Aug 26th to Sept 16 (sic) in Vladivostok checking material in railroad yards and docks part time. found immense quantities everything, autos, mach'y (??) rubber, leather, (wd??) etc etc

the chief amusement in Vladivostok was swimming. There was an excellent place to swim there, platform built with not too deep water, diving tower, and booths, women's place separate, 150 feet from men's. Some of women went in naked. Other wore Annette Kellerman suits. Many very good swimmers among Russian men and women. My friends the Kolstaffs and the Stepanovs Haranzeffs and Baron and Baroness V Z Renia Drakenfelt (??)were all in Vladivosotk & I occasionally called on them. Russian bath houses are very good. Cost 4 rubles. Shower & tub baths, soap, towel, a dressing room & a bath room, warm, lots of water. Could sure get clean there. Restaurant service very slow. Menu soups, meat, potatoes, bread, butter, tea, coffee, Kvas (sp??). Good music at certain hours. The steets were very interesting as one saw so m,any nationalities, kinds and combinations of uniform, every type of humanity there. Many miserable looking beggars. Very many tough women & young girls too on the streets and in the cafes. Attended the Pushkin theater one night, was a play and afterward a dance. russian waltz and some fold dances. Very pretty. We picked up some charming partners there. One of mine was a school teacher. (name??) Maiirraba (sp??).

Oct 13 Sunday hired couple droskies or evascheks and hauled all our possession including mattresses and blankets to the station. There a mob of Russian kids and Chinese assailed us & started several fights among themsevles for the privelege of carrying our stuff and thus making a rouble (sic). Finally got our stuff into Maj McGlogans (sp??) car all ok & a gave the kids a rouble each. Left Vladivostok 10 PM for Ambassador Morris' special train for Harbin. Our car was a very light one and was on the rear and the way it rolled made me think of the Simbirsk in the Japan Sea. Guard of 25 U.S. soldiers with the train. Mr Stevens with the Ambassador. Arrived Harbin 7 PM 14th. This town is spread out all over creation is extremely dusty when the wind blows, which is most of the time. The old town is unpleasing, the new Harbin is quite decent. City is patrolled by Chinese soldiers. Chinese everywhere. Had a dance at the "Y" on Wed the 16th & I met some pretty Russian girls. They like our American dancing. Left Harbin Thursday Oct 17th arrived Tsitsihar same day. Passed through an absolutely level prairie country, all the way. Found (wd??) here. Left Tsitsihar Sunday Oct 20th arrived Myandohe 1230 am Oct 21st. Rode with Maj Jones.

Harbin Oct 15th This morning Mr Page, the American ambassador to Japan, spoke briefly to the R.R.S. officers in their barracks at Harbin. He said he thought our work because of the uncertainty and idleness, had been harder than that of the other A.E. forces. He said our presence here and at this time has been and is invaluable to him, the reasons for this would become apparent later. At present he said that we must take his word for it that the R.R.S. by their conduct and their presence have meant a tremendous lot to the U.S. Government and in the name of the govt (sic) he represents so worthily the Ambassador thanked us. In referring to Russia and her problems he made an especially striking remark. He referred to an envoy of the Irkutsk Siberian govt. (sic) who was sent to Vladivostok as govr (sic) of that city & who came into conflict with the local body there and who then came to Mr. Morris seeking information as to the U.S. method of handling such things. Mr. Morris said "I explained to him as much as possible our system and ideas, that instead of our central govt (sic) sending men down to govern, our local bodies sent men up to represent." This summed up the vital difference between empires and republics very briefly and completely, I thought.

Myandohe is one of the railroad terminals where engines and crews of trains are changed. 5 track yard, round house, water tank, small Russian town on one side track, at a distance on other side a single row Chinese houses including 4 small shops. The Russian houses mostly have trees and yards about them and in summer the place must be pretty. Flat plain in here, 2 miles wide by 5 or 8 long, encircled by hills smooth sloped, and looking good to a skee (sic) enthusiast if only enough snow would come. We have a room in the eng'rs (sic) stop over building, comfortable enough for Russia, good elec light. Eat at the Ry. buffet and its pretty poor pickings. We have a telegraph wire from 6a to 7a 9a to 11 a 1 to 3 p, 5 to 7 pm 9 to 11 pm. Nothing to do except to observe things in general and learn the language. No interpreter here. Have to do our own talking.

Myandohe Oct 25, 1918 Lt Turner and myself had dinner today with Maj Mallett and his staff, commanding French force in Siberia. Two trains French here today, one ahead and one behind a boxcar was the dining room and kitchen. had pretty good dinner including several wines, cognac, and vodka. The French officers were surely good fellows. This major and his men had been fighting on the Habarovsk front where he with 2,000 men and one gun was oppoed by 6,000 Bolsheviks and 24 guns. Heat, thirst, mosquitoes were awful for a while he said. These French troops are on way to Vologda front to help the Checkos. Each train delayed here and at each terminal for 10 to 20 hours. Mostly for power and crews. We of the R.R.S. had no authority as yet and can do nothing.
Wednesday Oct 30th This evening rode Myandohe to Hailar on American Red Cross special train. On train were Dr. Teusler, head A.R.C., Siberia, a number of American women nurses, other Drs. + Thompson, Bernstein and Carl Ackerman, war correspondent. Did not see Ackerman. Sure seemed inexpressibly good to get on that train, eat supper in a good diner, good American style grub, American flags hung about the car, American people, American language, American atmosphere. The American flag means more to a fellow over here than it did at home.

Set (sic) down at a table in the diner with a Lt. Brown of the U S Army and 2 nurses, ladies who had been serving in Red Cross work in So. China. Our waiter was a China boy. he was so proud of the littel English he knew that he refused to listen to one of the ladies when she spoke Chinese. Bernstein came along and one of the ladies asked what the letter "C" on his arm meant. "it stands for" said he, "war correspondent, but really means "see everything." After supper we all went forward to a coupe where a cute little Russian women (sic) kept us laughing by trying to tell us, in broken English, our fortunes. Thompson came along looking for poker players but we were too busy. Dr. Teusler was on this train, moving his hospital from Bookedoo (sic) to the Eastern Russia front, probably Samara, or Simbirsk. they were all quite gay at actually being on their way. Understand this hospital outfit finally located at Omsk.

The Japanese troops are everywhere through Manchuria and Siberia past Irktutsk. Every available barrack building has been occupied by them seemingly to keep us, i.e., U.S. troops from getting in any where (sic). The attitude of the Japanese troops and lesser officers is cocky and insolent. They had made themselves offensive to Russians, Chinese, French, Czechs, Italians, and Americans. There have been incidents between Japs and other Allied troops a number of times in which the Japs have acted very offensively, insulted French or other Allied officers, even attempted to arrest or disarm troops or officers, but when met with a degree of firmness that calls their bluff they usually apologize. This does not make their attitude less offensive. They buy 3rd class tickets and occupy first class coupes, even going so far as to forcibly eject paying patrons of coupes. it is reported that Japanese capital is making a mad effort to buy up everything possible in the line of mining concessions, claims, stores, in short, to get an economic hold in Manchuria and Siberian Russia. The Japoanese are selfish, and where they are there is, if they can so arrange it, no room for anyone else. Their army is German in spirit and system. They are well trained. In fact, their training is too evident. If only two of their soldiers are going somewhere they start like a body of troops using the goose step. They are reported to be good fighters. I give them credit for that. But do not consider the average intelligence or education of the Jap army at all high. their men are in good condition and well equipped. One meets many Japanese whom one likes. They are immensely conceited over their army, in fact, everything Japanese, few of them knowing what is in the world outside Japan.

It is said that the Japanese gov't. and the big companies of that country are interlaced, the imperial family owning much stock in every worthwhile proposition. One cannot but feel that these people are, that is the masses of Japan, are, or can be, used as the instrument or means whereby the ruling powers can seek to accomplish any selfish purpose they wish. This is true of their religion, which is a fraud all the way through.
One must give the gov't credit for good administration, for order, for a good school system, fo sanitary measures etc. But Japan needs more representative gov't. Every people must have a strong voice in their own affairs before they can be recognized as belonging to the progressive friendly world.

Hailar Manchuria is a town of about 4,000 russians, 10,000 Chinese and 1,000,000 dogs. It is a sandy place, terribly dusty in summer. They say the great Gobi at its north end starts there and extends westward a ways. Saw a bunch of camels come into town herded by one of the Mongolian cowboys. splendid riders these fellows. Regular walled Chinese city there. Went all the way down its one street. Bought a peculiar Chinese pipe. Also a Chinese lock. Many Mongolians here. They are bigger, more forceful appearing than ordinary Chinese. They were a peculiar round silk skull hat with a tassle on it. Our boys carry a gun for protection against dogs after dark. Most everyone carries a gun in this land anyway. Some elaborate Chinese kimonos here.

Myandohe Nov 7th Train of Bolshevik prisoners guarded by Czecks (sic) moving east to Vladivostok here this am. They are a dirt, tough, but more pitiful than tough looking, lot. Bound to be dirty as they are crowded in locked boxcars. Strong after hot water which some use to wash in. They ask everyone for food. Hailar says 3 men died there. Czeck C.O. says nothing to give them. many people giving here bread and potatoes to them., Turner and I bought what bread we could at buffet & sent Chinaman out to them with it. One can understand somewhat the Bolshevik problem of Russia when one sees this bunch of ignorant men. (This was the "train of death.")- added in pencil The Czech C.O. said he came from Samara. Says U.S. troops fighting there. Tried to talk Russian to Czeck with this train but they claimed only spoke German.

Nov. 6th Three trains Siberian troops with field artillery and equipment moved east today. Cannot figure why these troops going to Vladivostok. They did not know who we were, either the officers or men apparently they came from west of Irkutsk.
Starting just recently the r.r. co. has 4 Russian soldiers with bright green caps on, and armed with rifles, appear at each passenger train time and stand facing the train at intervals along the platform. Jap soldiers are guarding railway at this point so do not understand reason for these Russian guards. It may be that the new gov't. is making an effort to be represented.

Myandohe Nov 17th Col. Semyonov (sic) coming west today. His special train is preceded by an armored train consisting of two light Russian cars protected by steel and with a gun or two on them. The eng pushes these cars. he has at least two of these cars, I saw one with the word "Vengeance" painted on it in large white letters & another with the word "terrible" similarly painted on it. Both words in Russian. These Russians chase up and down the line in special trains with an exaggereated idea of their own importance, and with no apparent business. They demand perfect service and want to arrest the station master or dispatcher who delays them, even tho (sic) unavoidably. they are using a lot of equipment that is much needed for other traffic. A switch tender caused a wreck at Manchuria (sic) which killed one soldier and injured another. The switch tender very promptly was shot. And they nearly shot the station master, too. Semyonov did a lot of good work last winter in holding the Bolsheviki back, and struggled through some hard times. Expect he is entitled to some gratification of his vanity since all the Russians get more less graft and gratification out of life.

The train of Bolshevik prisoners which passed Myandohe Nov 7th going eastward passes me again at Hailar in january, west. The westher was very cold, from 10 to 55 Fr (sic) below zero all the time. Prisoners in very bad condition. harbin had refused to take them. Had gone as far east as Nikolsk where A.R. C.(??) helped them all possible during their stay there. At Tsitsihar, coming west, Lt Hoag and our other officers interested themselves in the plight of these prisoners secured the village priest and a doctor to examine train. Found very large percent of prisoners sick, all classes of disease represented. Gave them supply food there, some more at Bookhedoo, as we at Hailar tried to start some help for them. But Russians refused to help and Commandant at Hailar said he did not want any appeal made to the people of Hailar for help. So the train went through to the Manchuria station and I notified Lt. Dugan at that place that I had been unable to secure any food for train at Hailar and told him to count on me for money to help purchase supplies at Manchuria. At Manchuria Lts. Dugan and Scoville (sp??) (Scoville was USA Intelligence officer, also ARC rep) had the cars cleansed, refueled, and a good supply of fuel furnished.

Hailar, Here all december, 1918 and January 1919. This town is a terminal point for caravans from or to various points in Mongolia, even as far as Oarga (sp??)which is some 500 miles S E of Irkutsk. Both camels and horses are used in these caravans and pull small clumsy 2 wheeled carts, some covered for passenger travel.
There is a Mongolian prince here who is ruler of all this part of Mongolia west of Khinghan (sic) Mts.. there are five tribes here.
The Mongols are Buddhists. their high priest at Oerga (sic) is said by them to have made the circle of reincarnation eight times. The great priest of this particular kind of Buddhism, who is at Tibet is believed to have lived thirteen lives so far. the priests are called "lamas." I saw a Mongolian lama ceremony in a school room at Hailar. the purpose of this religious stunt was to drive all the evil spirits away from Hailar and thus prevent any sickness. It was chiefly a noise festival, 6 lamas took part. There was a small altar enclosed by black cloth hangings in the room. In it were three tripods, incense and plates of food. The third day all this was carried outside a ways and burned. added in pencil: ("Several little banquets exchanged between Japs, Ruskies (sic) & Americans at Hailar in January.") The Mongol school was interesting. All the children studied aloud. The desks were rough home made affairs. 2 children to a desk. All boys as the girls are not educated. Was in the home of the teacher, a young Mongolian whop was educated in Shanghai, spoke Russian, Chinese, Mongolian, and a little English. Was in his home. He had a wife and baby girl. He Jerry Stuart and I some Mongolian tea. It was a sort of soup. He said they drank this twice a day, morning and evneing, and ate one meal a day at noon.

Saw a Mongol wedding one very cold day. There were fire crackers on the fence, on the ground, everywhere. the people were tagged out in very fine silks.
Attended a Chinese opera in the Chinese theatre (sic) at Hailar. Performers wore some very gorgeous silks, very grotesque masks, all sang in high strained falsetto voices, striving to be heard above the din of the industrious Chinese orchestra. No scenery
(wcd1-021)"19"was used, a lively imagination is needed to understand their plays. Towels were passed around during the play on which the audience wiped their hands and faces. It was funny to see the ushers throw towels to and fro all over the theatre. Atrocious tea was served. the building was about as cold as the outside weather. We were there, Lt. Stewart & I, as guests of our Mongol school teacher friend. We occupied the box of a Mongolian official.

All February and March I spent in Harbin. Lieuts. Terry and Niskern (sp??) died of pneumonia in February. We had a number of dances in the barracks which were very gay and enjoyable. Our jazz band, Lts. K. V. Turner, Bob Lewis, Shaw Meredith, Abe (an interpreter) Hirsch were the players, and sure turned out good music. The Russian women are very fond of the American dances and have become very good dancers. Their own dances become insipid to them after learning our dances. Miss Lydia Hansen and Miss Nina Froloba (sp??) were my particular friends during this time in Harbin.

May 25th the Colonel posted bulletins making assignments on the Chinese Eastern Railway & stating we were to assume direction of this road. I was assigned to Major Blunt at Pogranichnaya (sic). Also Lts. Victor, Mattison, Croxton, Capt James. We proceeded to our assigned places. No further bulletins, notices, or instructions were issued to us in regard to the extent of our authority & duty. Nor did the Russians receive any. so we are still up in the air and do not care to, in fact, cannot take any active part in operation as we seem to be here only on tollerance (sic) and no one need listen to us if he does not want to. I cannot understand this proposition. Mr. Stevens and the Col. know all these conditions & yet say nothing. Of there are old military boards, old laws, old rules to be elminated before we can issue orders making any radical changes. Its a funny proposition all the way through and at this time, June first, I have decided to reamin until Jan 1st 1920 at least, to see what happens, and to see the country.

Pogranichnaya. here from March 1st to May 30. This is a customs point, Manchurian-Siberian border. Russian and Chinese towns here. Railroad terminal. Center of a large poppy cultivation area Great deal of smuggling from and to here. Opium, silk, vodka, everything. saw the opium exhibit of the Chinese customs dept. Lt. Croxton was married in Russian church here. Lts. Victor, Shaw and Mattison & I assisted. I helped to hold the corwn over the bride's head, and switched the rings.
Made a trip to Vlady (sic) while at Pogranichnaya. Found that town very lively and more interesting than ever. Sure a cosmopolitan, a real international port. its setting is fine. Hills, bay, war ships, other ships, etc. My friend Consuelo Stepanov is here looking very pretty and about to be married to a fellow who is, for age, looks, pep, and everything in general, not what you would pick for a winner of a lively maid like Consuelo. Pogranichnaya is not a pleasant place, being too dull. the 2 sobranias (sic) are small, dirty and uninteresting. The surrounding territory is mountainous bu fertile. Were it not for the Honhoosies (sp??? wd????) who infect this territory thickly, it would develop rapidly. Between Nikolsk and Pogranichnaya there is a rich fertile plain. This gives way to a hilly and mountainous land reaching nearly to Harbin. There are some wonderfully fertile little valleys through here, and some find grazing land. Several 1.5 grades between Pogranichnaya and Handaohedsie (sp??? wd???). Made trip to Harbin May Met Mark Klugh there and suggested we swap so he could be near his lady friend in Vlady & I could go west. he agreed but the Colonel refused permission. But managed to get transferred to Omsk contingent in Morgan's place. Had to make hurried trip to Harbin & Pogran return for my baggage. Rode down with Col Emerson & Col Williams. Caught a ride in Mr. Sakaroft's (sic) car coming back. He was supt. in Hailar when i was there in Dec & Jan. Sure pleased to get away from Pogranichnaya even tho I agreed to remain longer over here to do this.

Trip to Omsk Left Harbin 1040 am June 4th. Our four cars on the head end of a French military supply train. We have a cook and eating car, a second class sleeper which is not elegant rides comfortably, a small official car and a large box for our supplies & baggage. Moving west from Harbin one crosses the Sungari then a broad level fertile valley of this river. The slope is very gentle, no hills being encountered until one gets west of Tsitsihar. Then toward Shalontoon (SP???) and to Miandoohe(sic) one passes through the foot hills and ranges of the Khinghan Mountains then again out onto a rolling almost flat prairie land which becomes sandy as one approaches Hailar, and west of there almost pure sand covered with only a thin covering of grasses. One gazes almost in awe at the endless expanse of this level fertile country which stretches away on both sides of the track west of Harbin. The sandy country around Hailar produces most every sort of vegetable. Tomatoes are a special favorite. Game birds are plentiful.

At Anda, the first terminal west of Harbin there are millions of poods of soya beans stored in stacks covered by tarpaulin and straw matting. met the wife of Lt. Strange at Bookhedoo. She just arrived from the States. Not very highly pleased with Siberia and Manchuria.

Between Hailar and Manchuria there is a semi desert country, sand dunes, bunches of scrubby grass, and a tree here and there. This land is a sot of suburb of the Gobi Desert which lies to the south. Passing this on again comes sandy prairie land which, except for a range of rocky hills just east of the border, continues for some 50 versts west of Manchuria and then gives way to gently swelling hills with more clay in the soil. Some of this country is such as is successfully dry farmed in the US, some of it is almost valueless, some of it is good grazing land and we saw considerable cattle and horses after getting away from the sandy country. this land is unoccupied except for a few nomadic Buriats. The only Russians found are the railway employees living along the railroad. The second 150 versts of territory west of Manchuria ending at Adrianovka is more hilly and the last 40 versts covers a 1.7 grade over a low mountain range. The downgrade westbound into Adrianovka is through an exceptionally pretty valley fertile and green and peaceful looking. We came along on Trinity Sunday and all tghe people were out picnicing.

I and all the other fellows too continue to wonder at the vast extent of this country, of the virgin soil never broken by spade, stretching away limitlessly on both sides of the track. Wooded land does not impress one as does this prairie land, level or swelling gently to low rises, occasionally into a hill, and covered only with grass, no trees, no bushes, it almost recalls to one an ocean on a placid day

May 8 3 PM arrived at Adrianovka. Pulled in right beside the train of Ataman Semenoff (sic), general of this district, Of all the play soldier, slacker, land pirate, comic opera outfits I have ever dreamed of, this one is sure "it." The General is nothere, probably at Chita, the next terminal. Here he has an armored train or two, There are three armored engines dead, one alive, and a number of armored cars, some coaches and private cars for the officers and their ladies, and quarters for some of the men on the track next to us. Then he has three engines in the round house awaiting his orders. If there were any need for such an outfit, it would be right to use all this good equipment, But there is no need for Semenoff or his men in this part of Siberia. All they do is live on the best of everything, steal all the customs receipts at Manchuria, make customs examinations at various other points, and appropriate most any article they please from the poor Russians. In Adrianovka they have commandeered all the food and store supplies & no one in town can purchase anything unless it is first refused by this bunch of "soldiers." They occasionally grab some defenseless (word??) employed and whip him. I do not know why except that this seems to have been a custom of the old regime and they still like to do it. Occasionally this outfit goes up in the woods, holds a picnic, or does a bit of sham shooting themselves, and then send a long report to Admiral Kolchak about their fighting Bolshevik bands in this region. They have a flat car fixed up prettily as a sort of beer of (sic) vodka garden, women, wine, songs, swords, salutes, clicking heels, clanking swords and spears are the size of this army. They are insolent to the greatest degree that they are permitted to be, they are rather careful in dealing with Americans and other Allies. The Japs, however, are said to be backing Semenoff. It is hoped that means may be found to rid this country of this nuisance before long. He is surely an eye sore and a four flusher of the first order.

This Zabaikal railroad is a finely built railroad. The operation seems to be pretty good. The chief improvement we can make on these roads is to put in train sheets to give them immediate records of their trains, car distribution systems, and their executive dept. should be reorganized to centralize and coordinate their depts. Except for a few dekapod engines their power is all small. Found Porter Twiner at Borzia, and Charly Grigg & W.A. Ridly at Adrianovka. Don Colby & James Dugan were at Manchuria. This trip is very interesting to me. Have been riding on top of a large American type boxcar and it is some (sic) observation car. The weather is warm and pleasant. We make pretty good time when we are moving, but we are not moving much of the time. terminal connections are poort. passenger service is very poor. Nos. 3 & 4 have mostly 3rd class equipment. Nos. 21 & 22, corresponding to 5 & 6 on the C.E. Ry. run irregularly. No. 1 & 2 weekly.

June 9th"4 a (sic) awoke at Chita. Capt. Vickers came in the car. Missed seeing Chita City. But nothing especial (sic) there. They city is on a plain with a range of hills in the background. Going out of Chita the railroad passes a long narrow and pretty lake which looks like a river for a ways. The soil at Chita is somewhat sandy. From Chita to Khilok the country is hilly and more or less wooded; much of it cut over woods. There are a few settlers in this territory. many pretty and fertile valleeys, occasional rivers and creeks. Similar to parts of northern Minnesota. At ketaisky the Amur line comes in; the double track starts at Keremekaya. the road follows right along side of a river (Khilok River) (inserted) here for some distance and it was very pretty sliding along there by moonlight. Found Lts. Stimm & Jake Wilson at Nogzon. All the fellows stationed on the Za Baikal say the Russians are very friendly. There are some Rerman agitators, or anti-American people over here who are occasionally encountered.

Tues. June 10th Arr'd. Verkhneudinsk 9AM left at 1:05 PM. All had a bath there, a luxury on a trip of this sort. This is Major Cantrell's headquarters. Found Cantrell Farnsworth, Pete (??) Hutchins, Merz, Myers, Dirs.(??) Lowell and Haas. Col. Merrow U.S.A. C.O. 27th Inf. here. Most of his men also here, rest scattered between Verkhny Udinsk (sic) & Irkutsk. the day before we arrived he had ordered the Semenoff armored train outfit to leave town & they had gone over 5 ersts to the west & apparently placed themselves under the protection of the Japs for when we came by there we found Jap soldiers in all the cars of the Semenoff train. About the 1st of June Merrow & this outfit came near clasing over a car in Gilleland's train. the Japs had several thousand men present at the time & from the manner in which they were placed it is hard to say which way they would have jumped had the clash occurred.

Left Verkhny Udinsk 1PM, reached Lake Baikal at 650 PM, arr'd. Mesovaya 8PM dep 9PM. Found some Asian (???) soldiers there. One of them had a box of soap in his hand, he told us it was good for a week's fun with the Ruskies.He said the people of the town would not drink vodka themselves, but would give it free
to the soldiers. One American soldier, an elderly man, had slipped out of camp that morning, drank some vodka & had died shortly after returning to camp. Drinking is, of course, against orders & a number of MP's were on duty to prevent it. I do not believe the Russians were trying to poison our men as this situation was different from any I had heard of before.

Arrived at Sedanka terminal at 4am, left 525 am, arrived at Baikal station at 925 am, dep 1015 a, arrived at Irkutsk at one pm. Few of our men at Sedanka.
from Khilok to Baikal we ran through a hilly low mountainous country, following the Khilok and rivers much of the way. some very pretty fertile valleys along here. Very few people. A great deal of pine and fir trees not very large but large enough for lumber.

The trip around Lake Baikal is an exceptionally interesting one. the road bed is built right along the lake's edge, much of the way being merely a niche dug out of the steep slope of the hills as they descend into the clear depths of this great lake. In the last 70 or 80 versts there are 38 tunnels. The track curves in and out with the shoreline and there is very little straight track. All along the eastern side and southern end are snow capped mountains, very jagged and steep looking, at some places right up to the lake, at other places receding behind lower green clad hills. We reached the lake as the sun declining bathing the lake and hills in its softening golden light, and as it sank lower and lower softening the light and shade until the mountains became a rich dark purple, white capped, the green hills melted in against the purple lower mountains, and the lake became a mirror, reflecting back in fusing, changing tints the glory of "old Sol's" dying light in the western skies. And high over the mountains sailed the moon in a clear night sky. The last light of the sunset did not disappear until nearly midnight.

Next morning we awoke at Sedanka. The sky was clear, no wind, and the lake became a great mirror as the sun arose, and dispelled the mists. The snow clad mountains were now opposite across the lake from us, & all morning till we reached Baikal, the peaks and hills & curving shore line were reflected back in the clear depths of lake Baikal. Arrived at Baikal station at 925am, saw there the old and very big railroad ferry that was in service before the line around the lake was built. It had been used as a war vessel in the Bolshevik- Checko-Slovak fight and had been battered and burned. They were trying to pump it out. We followed the Angara River from Baikal to Irkutsk, a very pretty ride. This river is the only outlet for the lake. It is swift, clear & cold. Joins the Yenesser R. & thence into the Arctic.
Col. Lantry, Lts. kane, Foster, Showalter, Eck at Irkutsk. YMCA & Red Cross stations also here.

Irkutsk (sic) arr'd 1PM June 11th de (sic) 11a June 12th Main town is across a wooden pontoon bridge over the Angara River from the station and railroad yards. Main town mostly level, other side hilly above railroad yards. Raiver very pretty. Many people washing their clothes in its clear water. Very many big churches including one huge handsome church which is the largest in Siberia(;) Greek Catholic. Was inside the biggest one. Streets cobble stone and dirt. Sidewalks some concrete, much (word?) wooden walks & dirt paths. many shade trees. Building mostly wooden. Also brick & stone. Almost no Chinese, many poor appearing Russians. many girls, neatly and prettily clad. Weather very warm, understand it rained and snowed previous day. Prices very high and merchandise scarce. Seemed be plenty food in store windows. Lake Baikal & the river supply much fish. Went along river on west side city, took picture there, millions of sand flies there, crawl all over one. Very unpleasant. saw British officers drilling rookies for new Siberian Army. rookies in Brit uniforms, i.e., supplied by Brit govt. to Russian Kolchak govt. Very fine park along river front. Has a monument of Alexander III, constructed of granite, all except the figure itself, and all of which granite has a most beautifully polished surface.

Across the river are the station and yards, homes, buildings, schools. Seems to be more of a good residence district on this side up on the hill. The station is always crowded with a mass of people. Good building outside, but like most all other stations over here, not pleasant inside. Bunch of draft men came in, they were underfed, ill clothed and not very willing, apparently, as they were treated like so many prisoners. there are very many Austro German prisoners here who are shifting pretty much for themselves. One of them is cooking for our men. The news I hear from the front is not good. Seems the Bolsheviks have taken Ufa, and that Gaida on the northern front is the only capable leader on the front. The soldiers flop back and ofrth as the battle goes. I sometimes wonder where we are at with the Japs and Semenoff behind us & the Bolsheviks ahead of us & all around us, for most of these Ruskies common people are Bolshevik given a chance.

Left Irkutsk 11am arrived Saint Inakientiskaya 1130am, very many trains here & no power. This talk about the Za Baikal & Tomsk roads being in better condition than the C E Ry (note: Chinese Eastern Railway which ran across Manchuria) is not correct in my opinion. Certainly passenger service is not so good. the double track of course, is an advantage over the C E, but terminal connections are no better. The road bed of all these lines is in excellent condition. The C. E. employees' houses are much better than the Za Baikal houses, being of brick & cement & larger than the little wooden houses of Za Baikal. the station buildings of both lines are good. The station buildings, grounds & right of way on the Za Baikal line are exceptionally neat. From Irkutsk west one passes through a very fine fertile valley, which grows wider westward. there are occasional villages and & considerable fine looking stock. This is some of the finest farmland I have ever seen. The villages seem to consist of a number of small houses, not much more than uts, and a church, the ever present Russian Church. Considerable fair sized pine timber in here.
(wcd1- 40) At 10pm arrived Cheremhovo, a large village. there are large cola mines here, excellent quality, and still daylight at 10pm. June 13th Arr'd. Zerma 4am, held here until some Bolshoi (sic) nacholnik up the line says we may proceed. This is the start of the Bolshevik trouble territory, and trains do not go at night and must be convoyed by Checks in daytime as Bolsheviks attack trains. From here to Krasnoyarsk is the worst territory. women and children hanging around train this morning begging for bread. they are poorly clad. These people probably need bread, but one or two gifts of bread ot them is enough to make beggars of them. they are refugees. their faces are full, and not stared appearing. many Czechs here, in a train, live her, cavalry company, have fine horses, good looking well behaved soldiers. At Polovina, yesterday evening, we saw a large number of Czechs living in cars. They had an orchestra playing under some shade trees, near the platform. Very good music. Violins, one horn, flutes, cello, drum. home made music stands.

There are some one hundred thousand Czechs from Irkutsk to Ekaterinburg. they are guarding the Tomsk railroad, Irkutsk to Tomsk & Novo Nikolaevsk. They refuse to participate in the fight on the Bolshevik front across & in the Urals. Can't blame them for this. They are holding a number of thousands (probably 5,000) box cars and some other equipment for living quarters chiefly. It is the only shelter they have. They are said to have brought merchandise into the country as military goods duty free, and made money on it, and if true, I can't criticize them because they don't get any thanks or reward except what they give themselves. All they want now is to go home. They have been away from home up to five yearssome of them with never a word from wife, children or parents. All their military equipment is stuff taken from the Bolsheviki. Coming out of Irkutsk we passed a number of Turkish prisoners. Also Austrians & germans. Poor cusses. Some of them are pretty home sick. On the other hand, however, some of them have married Russian women & will never return to their native homes. Arrived Tooloon 630pm de 830pm. Running around three other echelon trains which arrived here before we did, this due to eloquence of Capt. Hazard. Warm clear

Saty June 14th Left Nishni Udinsk terminal 530am Find ourselves in a sort of mountainous country. Wooded, not large trees. Later getting down into hilly and valley country, some good timber, some cleared land. Find Checks at every station living in box cars. They have some fine horses. Meet a Czech armored car train occasionally. Their living quarters cars are clean, no smell from them at all. Some cars have pictures painted on doors or sides, or scenes cleverly made of birch bark or mons (??) No sign of Bolshevik trouble so far, except some bridges, which are being repaired and wrecked cars down the bank at several points.

See many very poorly clad people, see girls of 12 to 14 & 15 years of age working on the section, in cleaning the yard work mostly. The women do regular section work. Track is in very good shape so far, more men than women work on the section. No tea, no surgar in the country. There is tea & sugar in the larger towns.
Krasnoyarsk. Here June 15th 8pm to midnight. Found large station, good, solid appearing exterior, but dirty inside due to lack of proper attention, and the large number of people, refugees etc lying around it at all times. Broad platform crowded with people, most of them not very well dressed. Set our watches back an hour. Went from station to a large park, passed along several pretty streets, sidewalked and paved, many shade trees saw number large buildings including several good churches, one Roman Catholic, Walls and fences are popular in Siberia so that one cannot see the pretty gardens.

Found the krasnoyarsk park to be very large and untouched, except for walks, benches & several band stand pavillions. In one an Italian band was playing, in another a Russian band. Very good music. The Italians played "Over There" for us. So we had American music by an Italian band in a Russian park. Extremely well played, too. 1600 Italians here, been here since Jan'y. Many Czechs, their cavalry dressed in nabby uniforms of bright red riding pants with yellow leather wear parts, soft gray jackets, nifty round grey caps with red tops & a feather. Czechs sure keem themselves neat. Italians neat appearing also. It's good policy to dress these men in a manner to please them for it's a hard graft at the best to be hung up for so long in this land. It seems pleasant enough now, but think of the long long (sic) cold winter.
Most everybody in town seems to be "goolyating" in this park. the girls all seem to be dressed neatly and prettily. Very many girls of 15 to 18. The Czechs & Italians are more popular than the Russians. The Yenessei (sic) River which we crossed coming into Krasnoyarsk is a tremendous big river. The bridge across it is a single track six span affair. Great long high spans. the piers are of stone. All the bridge work on this Siberian line is unexcelled. 40,000 prisoners in camp near Krasnoyarsk. These men are taken care of to some extent by Russian govt. they also are applying their many trades to good advantage. Taiga. Arr'd. am of June 17 Dep This is a large terminal & also the Tomsk line junction. Very large yard, two round houses, 3 water tanks, small town clustered around yards, see one large church and another smaller. Viaduct of slender concrete construction crosses the yard. Many trees. Checks have a train of cars with every sort of trade represented in it. Gasoline engine in one car furnishes electric power for machines in all the other cars. Took 3 pictures.

Hear this morning from Maj. Peterson that there is fighting again on the western front. Hope all these people who are in Siberia & who are on the wrong side keep quiet.
Have not passed much large timber since leaving Irkutsk, or in fact, east of there. May be large timber back a ways from railroad. Near track one sees mostly small bunch of fire wood size. Most all this territory is eassily clearable, very fertile and just as fit for agriculture as northern Saskatchewan & Alberta. See some grain. Much fine pasture land, many horses, girls and women selling milk at every station. Sunlight from 3am to 10pm. whole country at this time (June), is beautifully green.

Novonikolaevsk Arrived here 11pm June 17th Pop. (sic) before was 80,000, now 200,000 and more, very many refugees. Transfer point altai, Omsk & Tomsk railways. People all around station scattered in groups with their bags and bundles, tired, dirty, always a long string of them lined up to get hot water at the kepyatok. Men, women, children, babies. Back at the station are two long sheds with copunters facing out on each side, here bread, butter, sausage, cheese and milk & a few vegetables are sold, also cooked eggs. Town well spread out, same as most Siberian towns. few paved streets. walks are narrow wooden ones, except on the Prospect where there are broad cement walks. Not nearly as muddy and dusty as Omsk, or Harbin. Many two story bldgs (sic), few larger ones. No real fine cathedral. Very fine new school bldg (sic), a military technical school has large play ground, Nelson and Katrin (sp??) of YMCA filling (??) these grounds for volleyball, etc. City authorities not antagonistic. 15,000 Polish soldiers here. Rev. Convis(??), Y worker with. Large number of CzechoSlovaks here. Also Russian military point. See many of these husky, pitifully trained & ignorant Siberian peasant boys entraining here & t'fr'g.(sic) from Altai line.

Two parks here, music at each every evening in summer time. also theatre in each, mainly operetta & farces presented. Bans play good music. Czech, Polish, and an Austro German prsioner band here. Also small circus in town, a theatre on the main street and a movie place. martial law after 12mid. pass is necessary to be on the street. Poles helping to guard road here & also west city. They, the Poles, occasionally find Bolshevik agitators in their army and execute them. Very large railroad yard. Three commandants, Czech, Russian, Polish. 1000 box cars here to Chylomskaya, no material for repairs. Am'n (sic) Red Cross typhus hospital & refugee station here.

July 14. Took sleeper 1176 to Omsk on train 3. Arr'd. Omsk 530pm 15th. Here to Omsk all or almost flat green prairie plain, many lakes & rivers Barabirsk section.(MAP OF RAILROAD AND POSITION OF CITY OF OMSK DRAWN IN HERE) Omsk pop 600,000. Either very dusty, very muddy, or both. rain & sunshine every day. RR admin bldg is tremendously big building, built by prisoners of war. Large good looking station building. RR 2 miles long connecting station & town. Hourly service all day except when the Dictator decides to go somewhere when the whole thing is demoralized. Fare 60 kopeks, women condrs.(sic) Station platform always crowded with a motley mob of refugees, civilians, officers, military and railroad, & the railroad men. One must walk a half mile after leaving the city end of the viatka, following the crow through either dust or mud. Then one finds the main streets, wooden and cement walks, streets partly paved, quite muddy, lots of traffic, pedestrian waschiks, autos, carts, horse back, mostly two story buildings for a stretch of a half mile, prices high, nothing much to buy. Several parks with their orchestras and operettas. Hundreds of officers walking the streets, soldiers, Allied officers, Nothing impressive about the town. Om River runs through center of town & joins the Irtish. I rode from Omsk to Barabirsk on the express, then in a Y car from Barabirsk to Novonik(sic) with Mr. Ankeney(sp?) of Japan, a YMCA man, & Dr. Frank, a Red Cross man who is going to Tomsk to start a 2,000 bed hospital. Ankeney has been trying ot carry on "y" work at Omsk, but it is very difficult there as the govt officials are there & some condemn the YMCA for its "dangerously Bolshevik principles."

July 20th Hundreds of Russian officers in Omsk and elsewhere, why don't they fight. Scarcely trained troops going west, but what for, all reports indicate practically no fighting on front. Eaterinburg(Sic) and Chelyabinsk evacuated, Siberian Army retreating, Red advancing, practically no contact between armies. It's a 50-50 guess that Omsk will have to be evacuated. Kolchak govt. moving what small gold supply they have. Red Cross people coming in from west, Consul from Ekaterinburg also. Big question as to how to handle refugees, whether to let em(sic) come east in cars and further block the line, or whether to send em(sic) up the river to Tomsk & Tobolsk from Novo Nikolaevsk, Omsk &(sic) Many typhus cases coming in A.R.C. typhus train come to Omsk then went to yard across the river to handle typhus cases. Bert was over there, said several sanitary trains there full typhus & dysentery cases. No provisions made to feed refugees set out over there. They had to walk to Omsk to get bread. Refugees, including people of all classes coming east in box cars. Cars filled with people all sorts personal belongings, cattle, pigs, horses, carts, sleighs, most people have a samovar, if nothing else. Some of these people manage to keep themselves looking quite decent, mighty tough having to ride in these cars, nothing better to ride in, no hotels to go to, no matter how much money one has. Women usually look better than the men. Hard to say what is holding up the Kolchak govt. Presence of Czechs I believe. His General Staff, the Russian officer corps in general seems to be very poor. No confidence i the Kolchak govt. Jealousy and petty politics in the army. As the Reds move east there is increasing danger of all Siberia rousing to the Bolshevik movement. Trouble expected most anytime at Omsk. Almost was serious trouble between Czechs and Russians at Omsk due to Russians (cossacks) beating up several Czechs at various times. Gaida has quit the Russians and gone to Vlady. Understand the high Russian officers were unable to stand the measures he proposed for returning the army to discipline.

Transposed by Robb Adams.