Travels with Shadow

New Mexico and Arizona


In order to allow more liberal use of photos without causing long download times,
I am primarily using black and white photos


It is 930 miles from Kerrville, Texas to Gila Bend, Arizona


On the second of March I folded up my trailer and headed out for Arizona. As I had hitched up the car and disconnected utilities the night before I managed to get on the way by six in the morning. On the way to Las Cruces, New Mexico I made good time although it was a steady uphill climb. I overnighted at the Coachlight Motel in Las Cruces of eleven bucks and again got off at six in the morning, arriving in Gila Bend Arizona and Augies RV Park at half past three. Altogether I did over 930 miles in two days and was a bit beat from it.




On the way to Las Cruces, the terain changed from forested hills in the Texas Hill Country to desert with messas and then mountains as we reached the border. It was pretty much a steady uphill climb. Well into Arizona we finally begain the descent, passing through a range of gigantic stacked boulders in a pass at the top of the run. Most of it was pretty impressive country, but for other than for scenic beauty, not much use. You would be hard pressed to even feed a sheep on much of it.

I pulled into Augie's Quail Trail RV Park near the old Butterfield Stage Coach Station in Gila Bend. It is a new park with decent facilities but is mostly a sand lot. They charged me a hundred bucks for a week which works out to about 15 bucks a day. Tomorrow I will head over to the nearby Air Force base and check out their RV camp which reportedly went for seven bucks a night last year. As things are still too cold to head north to the Grand Canyon and too expensive in California (thirty to fifty bucks a night to park a rig), I will probably sit here or in Yuma for the rest of the month. Anyway, I need a breather.


Abandoned adobe after desert storm

The Air Force base checked out ok and I will be heading there when my time is up at Augies. We drove 60 some miles north to check out Phoenix. Halfway there there the smog was crawling down the valley. It looked like another LA to me, congested and hard to breathe in. As far down as Gila Bend, the smog can be seen crawling across the mountains in the morning. I will not be stoping in Phoenix on the way north to Flagstaff.


Old Butterfield stage coach route

The old Butterfield stage coach route cuts through here in Gila Bend. About ten miles down the road you can follow the trail up into the mountains if you have a four wheel drive. I checked it out and followed it up to what was called "happy camp" in the old days. They would carry water here from the Gila river ten miles away. They created an oasis where man and beast could rest. The trip from San Francisco to Saint Louis took 22 days, and we think we have it bad today. It was a rough trip with a four wheel with rubber tires, shocks and springs. I would hate to do it in a stage coach.


Sonorian Desert

This country is barely habitable from May through September. It is best to arrive in October and be gone in April. Gila Bend is a small town of 1,700 which appears to make its living off from traffic flowing between I-8 and I-10 as it sits on the junction of I-8 and the route to Phoenix and LA. There is one grocery that stocks most needed items, but don't expect a great variety. There is a Post Office where you can get your mail general delivery and a library where you can check your email.